Following the advice of Mohammad, our host in Bodhgaya, we rent a Tata Sumo with driver for our 80 kilometers trip to Rajgir. The Buddha spent some time in Rajgir which makes it another important pilgrim site. On top of a 400 meters high hill stands the Vishwashanti stupa. A good old rope car is supposed to take us to the hill top. But when we arrive the ticket counter is closed and the car doesn’t run. Fortunately, the arrival of a large group of pilgrims from Myanmar seems reason enough to get it started. The white stupa with golden images of the 4 stages of the Buddha’s life (birth, enlightenment, preaching, death - corresponding the 4 most important pilgrim sites) shines brightly in the sunlight. The park area around it is peaceful and resonates to the sound of a large drum which is continuously beaten 32 times a minute during the whole time we spend on the hill. On our descent we pass the Griddhakuta hill where the Buddha preached to his followers and where “our” pilgrim friends from Myanmar hold a ceremony.

Our next stop is the Lakschmi Narayan temple where priests pour holy hot thermal water over the pilgrims. The place is an interesting mixture of a temple and a public bathing and washing area bustling with people and little shops. A quick climb to a nearby hill (also visited by the Buddha) provides a good view. There is a really fancy swimming pool (with cold water) next to the temple which costs less than 50 Eurocent entrance fee. So next time we come to Rajgir we will make sure to bring our swim wear.

Not far from Rajgir is the site of Nalanda university founded in the 5th century and one of the greatest universities in ancient times. Sariputra, one of the famous disciples of Buddha, lived and taught here. The Chinese traveler and scholar Hiuen Tsian who visited Nalanda around the year 700 found 10.000 students and monks studying theology, grammar, logic, astronomy, metaphysics, medicine and philosophy. The vast ruins situated in a nice park give an impression of the former 11 monasteries and 6 temples. On our way back through the usual traffic mixture we stop to pick up some of the famous and really very good Rajgir biscuits made at street side. They come in sweet and salty versions but we prefer the sweet ones.